The Wax and Tune Ya Goon Thread

[C.Fuzzy]

Let's talk about the theory behind storage wax. Like waxing with tight binding screws, not once have I had any sort of issue not storage-waxing my boards. They've told us for years your base will dry out, and act like it's damaging. I don't know if I've noticed my bases being any more dry than they were at the end of the season, but I've seen a base that already needed a wax go into storage for years, and come out more dry. However, they come right back to life with one wax, so what's the issue?

Personally, I see it much more as potential for protection during storage, if you're worried about surface scuffs.

I readily admit the pore thing is kind of a pet peeve of mine, although humorous. Just interesting that at some point in the past, somebody made that claim with no basis - and not only did the industry run with it, we added more false information on top of it to explain why the pores do what they do.

I also think the storage waxing to prevent drying base is a rather ridiculous assertion.

However, plastic will break down, eventually. As a vintage snowboard collector, I've seen some bases that were brittle and cracking while other boards of the same age weren't. I believe this is due to thermal cycles and baking (like a car dashboard) by being up in hot environments (garages and attics). (again with the heating & cooling dood!?) In my experience even boards that are in damp basements, but a consistent temperature, while the edges rust, the bases are fine.

I don't know shit about pores, but I try to love everyone equally.

[C.Fuzzy]

Imo it observable when waxing that it does occur because the base color / wax color dots where the inserts are.

My response to this is you see it when waxing because the wax fills in the existing divots previously caused by tight bolts pulling on the inserts

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[C.Fuzzy]

All this talk of base dimples reminds me of the "structurn" base I had on a DC board from like 2012. It was dimpled like a golf ball from the factory. Might've been placebo effect, but the thing was damn fast compared to my friends' boards.

"Structurn™ Base – Just like the dimples of a golf ball break tension and make it fly farther, these small dimples in the base break water tension and allow your board to glide faster, turn easier and allow you to ride on."


structurn-base-finish.jpg

I had structurn on an arbor wasteland and to me it had no noticeable performance difference.

[Spenser]

All this talk of base dimples reminds me of the "structurn" base I had on a DC board from like 2012. It was dimpled like a golf ball from the factory. Might've been placebo effect, but the thing was damn fast compared to my friends' boards.

"Structurn™ Base – Just like the dimples of a golf ball break tension and make it fly farther, these small dimples in the base break water tension and allow your board to glide faster, turn easier and allow you to ride on."


structurn-base-finish.jpg

I vote we use the structurn & golf ball theory to shift our perspective of base divots. Roast your base. You will go faster. It's science. High heat expands horizons

I think stepchild used structurn for a bit as well? Never tried it myself, but the idea makes some sense to me re: suction. Definitely works with golf balls. Curious if I'd feel a difference in our especially wet environment up here... but isn't it all smooth after waxing?

[Spenser]

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[C.Fuzzy]

I don't think a snowboard travels fast enough to 'break' the resistance the same way a golfball does. And I'm doubtful the resistance of snow and air similar.

If this worked they'd do it on water skis since air functions as a liquid, it would have cross application. They don't even do it on cars. I think (could be wrong) that a golf ball is a unique application where the dimples work because of the speed and rotation of the ball.

Waxing, oddly enough, didn't fill the divots on mine and scrape flat. I thought they would before I got it but they weren't deep enough to hold wax.

[C.Fuzzy]

Imo it observable when waxing that it does occur because the base color / wax color dots where the inserts are.

My response to this is you see it when waxing because the wax fills in the existing divots previously caused by tight bolts pulling on the inserts

shock.gif

The bolt dimple make you go faster. Destrcturn.

[kimchi]

Another topic - what do we tighten our binding bolts with? People who use a straight driver give me anxiety. I've used the Burton bullet tool for years, with the little torque handle. Doesn't mean I over-tighten, but you get a more precise sense of how snug things are.

I only get anxiety because most people are using the WRONG straight driver. Phillips head #2s are much, much, much more common, and most riders don't realize they need PH3s for binding screws. So, so, so many stripped screws out there. A shop buyer I know told me he started stocking NOW-branded PH3s because he realized he'd literally never owned a PH3 before other than a snowboarding tool.

I actually prefer the straight driver as long as I'm not on-hill or using one of those damned chained screwdrivers at resorts. Ratchets are only necessary on snowboard tools because weird shapes and short necks compromise torque in the first place.

[Spenser]

The extra turning I get (which I want) if I use my bullet tool after doing my best with a straight driver is part of what leaves me feeling the former is insufficient, even with the correct #3

Then this is more of a user error thing - but my god I can't tell you how many times I've handled a friend's board who uses straight drivers & they were like... finger tight

Some don't have a feel for fasteners, or an understanding of why proper tightening matters - whether that's tight like lug nuts, or something to be feathered like valve cover bolts or small bike components

Edit: in 2022 when I got the Shorty, I was setting up the stance and forgot to actually tighten the bolts down when I was done. I rode the next day and noticed after a run or two that I could wiggle my bindings, and fixed it. That was also when I realized I somehow looked at the tape measure wrong and had shortened my stance a whole inch. It actually felt pretty good... but that made me laugh

[sinned]

I only get anxiety because most people are using the WRONG straight driver. Phillips head #2s are much, much, much more common, and most riders don't realize they need PH3s for binding screws. So, so, so many stripped screws out there. A shop buyer I know told me he started stocking NOW-branded PH3s because he realized he'd literally never owned a PH3 before other than a snowboarding tool.

I actually prefer the straight driver as long as I'm not on-hill or using one of those damned chained screwdrivers at resorts. Ratchets are only necessary on snowboard tools because weird shapes and short necks compromise torque in the first place.

I used to ride a bunch of Salomon bindings way back (Chief, SPX90, SPX Carbon, etc.) and those actually had Posidriv #3 screws (PZ3). Not nearly the mess that Phillips #2 drivers made with PH3 screws, but a subtle but noticeable difference when using the right tool. I'm fully on only using a straight driver and carry a bullet tool for emergencies.