EzLounging

I thought we had one of these but I can't seem to find it.

Looking for beta on base grinding from y'all. I have a brand new board that I rode twice last season. Clear base, Waxed prior to riding, took 2 runs on it and it felt slow AF. Same conditions, other boards were fine. Came back and waxed again with a better wax, took it out a 2nd time. Still felt slow AF. Same conditions, other boards were fine.

Now, I like the shape, I want to keep it...but due to how the base felt I'm on the fence between just offloading it or alternately (here comes the question) would a base grind help at all, considering it's basically brand new?

I've only ever done base grinds on boards that needed it due to wear/damage/repair. But since this thing has like 4 runs on it... it's hard for me to imagine a base grind will do much besides put me out $50 and give me the same result. I'm leaning towards doing it just to do it.

But, Anyone have insight or knowledge to my situation?

how do you wax your board, like are you only scrapping it or are brushing it after you're finished too?

I'd probably try a steel>brass>nylon roto brush and refresh your base structure before a base grind, esp since you only put a couple days on it

benjinyc wrote: ↑Tue Oct 03, 2023 2:25 pm how do you wax your board, like are you only scrapping it or are brushing it after you're finished too?

I'd probably try a steel roto brush and refresh your base structure before a base grind, esp since you only put a couple days on it

It's a tender and intimate process with the lights down low...dripping hot wax up and down the base...

But in the end I scrape and finish off a hand rub with a greenie scrub. Like any other board I've ever done.

I used to use those green scotch brite scouring pads too, the steel and nylon roto brushes are a noticeable improvement

I'm just annoyed how overpriced they are

Huh, I could have sworn we already had one of these too. "Wax and Tune Your Ride" or something like that.

I'd at least take it down to a shop with a good tech and ask their thoughts. Maybe the base isn't flat and you're getting some suction or drag. Maybe the base structure is completely wrong for the type of snow at your local. Or maybe the factory tune is garbage. Maybe some base prep wax would help.

I've heard different points of view on tuning new boards. Some higher end shops say you'll get better performance out of the gate and many pros get fancy Monocera tunes before new decks even touch snow. Johnny Lupo out of Boardworks in Bellingham-- one of the best techs I've ever seen --is strongly against grinding new boards. He'll set folks up when they come in for repairs and tunes, but for brand new boards he says the benefits aren't worth spending the money and losing the base material for most riders. And that's coming from someone who would financially benefit from tuning new boards.

Personally I'm pretty finicky and I've never noticed that much of a difference after I get big tunes. Board might track a tiny truer or glide a tiny bit better, but the only tuning aspect I've ever really taken notice of is edge bevel, personally.

Also +1 to @benjinyc, brushes >>> scouring pad. I might finish with a scotebritch, but clearing wax out of structure takes so much goddamn longer than a nylon brush.

kimchi wrote: ↑Tue Oct 03, 2023 2:44 pm Huh, I could have sworn we already had one of these too. "Wax and Tune Your Ride" or something like that.

Yeah. Pertty sure that was it. I ran though each category twice and my eyes didn't spot it. I'm sure someone will show me I was jsut too impatient.

kimchi wrote: ↑Tue Oct 03, 2023 2:44 pm I'd at least take it down to a shop with a good tech and ask their thoughts. Maybe the base isn't flat and you're getting some suction or drag. Maybe the base structure is completely wrong for the type of snow at your local. Or maybe the factory tune is garbage. Maybe some base prep wax would help.

I've heard different points of view on tuning new boards. Some higher end shops say you'll get better performance out of the gate and many pros get fancy Monocera tunes before new decks even touch snow. Johnny Lupo out of Boardworks in Bellingham-- one of the best techs I've ever seen --is strongly against grinding new boards. He'll set folks up when they come in for repairs and tunes, but for brand new boards he says the benefits aren't worth spending the money and losing the base material for most riders. And that's coming from someone who would financially benefit from tuning new boards.

Personally I'm pretty finicky and I've never noticed that much of a difference after I get big tunes. Board might track a tiny truer or glide a tiny bit better, but the only tuning aspect I've ever really taken notice of is edge bevel, personally.

Also +1 to @benjinyc, brushes >>> scouring pad. I might finish with a scotebritch, but clearing wax out of structure takes so much goddamn longer than a nylon brush.

My mind agrees with Lupo. I can't for the life of me imagine a reason why a base grind on a brand new base makes any sense. Indeed imo Its a minor improvement even on well worn decks. But I'm open to that someone may have a good solid explanation why it could.

Maybe instead of the $50 for the base grind, I'll spend 4x on a set of rotobrushs. lol.

A base grind is the way to go in this case. Either the factory screwed up the base grind or you have a low quality base. If you look at a base under a high powered microscope you'll see that it's not actually flat but looks more like the grand canyon. That's what the wax seeps into. Anyways, in some poorly made boards those holes are angled towards the nose which create friction. A base grind is the best thing you can do to try to fix it. How does it ride switch? lol
Which brand is it?

I keep up on wax, but not a freak about it. Typically run ice or cold wax right along the edges so it lasts slightly better, and then whatever is appropriate on the rest of the base. Scrape, brass brush at each 45°& then one from tip to tail.

I hate detuning anywhere, and have never really touched my edges from factory sharp, but I got a nice tuning set up from Sidecut last year. Used it on the orbit, and revived my cadet rock board. Pretty amazing!

C.Fuzzy wrote: ↑Tue Oct 03, 2023 3:29 pm I can't for the life of me imagine a reason why a base grind on a brand new base makes any sense. Indeed imo Its a minor improvement even on well worn decks. But I'm open to that someone may have a good solid explanation why it could.

My 22/23 Indoor Survival had insanely deep tip-to-tail structure that made it constantly pull back downhill. It made buttering/slashing/getting sideways noticeably less fun with this weird catchy/resistant feeling. Like you could actually hear the structure making a high pitched noise on firm snow when doing butters (like unzipping a tent). So I got a base grind on it after one day on the hill haha. If your factory structure is fucked, it can definitely slow you down.

It's not uncommon that factory tunes are a bit subpar, compared to what they could be. Probably doesn't matter 99% of the time for 99% of people, but still.

Certain brands are notorious for sub par finishing from the factory, while others tend to be pretty good. I definitely wouldn't say it's an issue in general, but it does happen.

There are very few brands who even attempt to do anything beyond a standard quick finish/tune, to get it out the door to the shop floor without any fuss.. and sure, that's perfectly fine for all but a very small portion of riders.

For expert carvers who really know what they're doing, it's pretty normal that the factory edges could use some help. Yes they're sharp, but we're talking specific bevels and all that. I always use Lars as an example, who is a giant nerd, and he tunes his brand new boards. Again, 99%+ of people couldn't tell the difference, but for those few who are expert carvers and nerds, it's noticeable. I'm picky, but not that picky.