The Wax and Tune Ya Goon Thread

[jota]

Before, fluoride wax was the best. Now if you use wax with fluoride you are the number 1 enemy of the environment... it is difficult here to get hertel... and here we have vola, toko, swix...
any great waxes in Europe?

[Blessed420]

i just use the cheapest swix i can get and it has been good enought, couldnt see any difference to hertel.

[scrub]

My process is basic: loosen without removing the bindings, use a long PH3 (I ride EST boards so I tighten hardware frequently) and wax but don't scrape when putting the boards away at the end of the season.

But I just discovered I have been brushing out of order, I use the wire brush before scraping, then the nylon/soft brush/buff with pad after scraping. It seems to work great though.

I suck at edges though.

[pow_hnd]

I use the wire brush before scraping

Wire brush is before you wax, use it to remove residue and to clean the structure so it will accept all new wax. Tip to tail.

Then wax.

Then scrape.

Then nylon brush, tip to tail.

I wouldn't cork. That is really only for race setups or if you're dry waxing. A cork will remove wax and flatten your structure.

If you were to do anything else after the nylon, it would be horsehair. But again, kind of a racing thing.

[michaelangelo]

I don’t have any love or hate for the channel, but I’ve never had a binding slip after only using short screws (burton black screws, some bent metal screws) and the process of tightening bindings down, strapping in and carpet flexing it, and then retightening.

[Supra]

Wire brush is before you wax, use it to remove residue and to clean the structure so it will accept all new wax. Tip to tail.

For the wire/brass brush, I do it tail to tip. For post scrape brushing it's tip to tail.

Tail to tip will raise the micro hairs up which will let more wax get on the base. I forget where I first heard this but racewax.com says the same thing:

https://www.racewax.com/wax-application/

Start with a firm brushing of the base with a stiff brass brush (at least) or a steel brush. Care and experience is required here because a sharp/coarse brush can ruin a base. If the bristles are sharp, dull them with a file and test on old skis first. (better choice, especially for harder [cold temp] waxes) to remove oxidation and expose the base structure clogged with dirt & old wax.
Do this from tail to tip. Yes, it is not a typo, tail to tip. You need to remove wax from the structure. If your brush is sharp or very stiff, make sure you use enough pressure to remove wax, but not so much as to damage the base structure. Do three full length passes. Break the ski into thirds and work each third three times. Do a clean up brushing with the brass brush. Use a sharp scraper to remove any base material hairs.

[Spenser]

I love my brass brush.

I still finish with each 45° and then single strokes from tip to tail.

[casjcade]

Before, fluoride wax was the best. Now if you use wax with fluoride you are the number 1 enemy of the environment... it is difficult here to get hertel... and here we have vola, toko, swix...
any great waxes in Europe?

Datawax has some nice stuff.

[Spenser]

Lars started a channel recently and has been putting out some pretty good informative videos. If anyone is a bit of a nerd and interested in this stuff, there are some good watches.

[pow_hnd]

Before, fluoride wax was the best. Now if you use wax with fluoride you are the number 1 enemy of the environment... it is difficult here to get hertel... and here we have vola, toko, swix...
any great waxes in Europe?

Datawax has some nice stuff.

I can ship you Hertel if you want.