jota wrote: ↑Thu Feb 22, 2024 3:06 am
What you mean is that instead of grinding, another option is to hydrate the base with oil so that the wax sticks to it later?
(Does this mean that the wax does not stick because the base is very dry and for that reason it does not form a union? (Something like palm oil for making cookies that makes everything “unite”? I couldn't think of another example. .. )
I do believe that proper grinding will increase the “hairy surface” area a lot and will help with ability to contain the wax, saturating with oil/wax will not replace that. But a new or freshly grinded base will hold the wax better, after it is saturated with wax/oil and not “dry” anymore. Oil will just speed up the process.
Homemade “grinding” shown in the video above is worth to try, especially on park board with “polished” surface, as in video.
jota wrote: ↑Thu Feb 22, 2024 3:06 am
What you mean is that instead of grinding, another option is to hydrate the base with oil so that the wax sticks to it later?
(Does this mean that the wax does not stick because the base is very dry and for that reason it does not form a union? (Something like palm oil for making cookies that makes everything “unite”? I couldn't think of another example. .. )
I do believe that proper grinding will increase the “hairy surface” area a lot and will help with ability to contain the wax, saturating with oil/wax will not replace that. But a new or freshly grinded base will hold the wax better, after it is saturated with wax/oil and not “dry” anymore. Oil will just speed up the process.
Homemade “grinding” shown in the video above is worth to try, especially on park board with “polished” surface, as in video.
ok
Where I protest is because my Mervin has been used for 4 days... It's new
This is what happens when whole industries are founded and rely on bro science for their existence. We'll never know the truth. But the truth will set you free...
from accidentally getting base oil in the tip of your peener.
alex wrote: ↑Thu Feb 22, 2024 3:46 am
I do believe that proper grinding will increase the “hairy surface” area a lot and will help with ability to contain the wax
Before any new board I get touches snow, this is what I do these days.
Full tune, with a mild structure put in the base, and make sure the base edge is at 1º, no waxing done
alex wrote: ↑Thu Feb 22, 2024 3:46 am
I do believe that proper grinding will increase the “hairy surface” area a lot and will help with ability to contain the wax
Before any new board I get touches snow, this is what I do these days.
Full tune, with a mild structure put in the base, and make sure the base edge is at 1º, no waxing done
I do a lower key version of this. No tune until I'm confident I'm going to keep it. 1-2 layers of base prep wax, then 1-2 layers of real wax (usually Hertel Hot Sauce, but been playing around with Booger Red this season).
I don't really notice any performance benefits with the base prep steps, but my wax jobs do seem to last a day or two longer than normal.
If my Aeronaut base doesn't start holding wax better and accelerating bit better, I will probably stone grind it. Not looking forward to re-doing this work. Maybe I'll ship it to Mono Cera to have them hot box it lol.
jota wrote: ↑Thu Feb 22, 2024 1:20 pm
The problem in Europe is that the phantom system costs €130… it isn’t cheap
It’s about the same here, $150, but if you know you’re gonna keep a deck it’s well worth it.
And the box is only for one board?
and on the other hand, phantom talks about: Step 1: Clean Base with Base Cleaner
Step 2: Apply PHANTOM Glide Permanent Base Treatment
Step 3: Cure PHANTOM outside for 1hr in direct sunlight (> 7C / 45F)
Step 4: Polish bases periodically to maintain glide.
What does this fourth step mean? Do you apply it?
This problem has never happened to me that the base doesn’t take the wax but on the other hand when I travel, during the trip I can’t use hot wax and that means use liquid wax. With the phantom, would the hot wax last about 3 or 4 days? (so as not to have to use liquid wax, which always seems like a bad option to me)
jota wrote: ↑Thu Feb 22, 2024 1:20 pm
The problem in Europe is that the phantom system costs €130… it isn’t cheap
It’s about the same here, $150, but if you know you’re gonna keep a deck it’s well worth it.
And the box is only for one board?
and on the other hand, phantom talks about: Step 1: Clean Base with Base Cleaner
Step 2: Apply PHANTOM Glide Permanent Base Treatment
Step 3: Cure PHANTOM outside for 1hr in direct sunlight (> 7C / 45F)
Step 4: Polish bases periodically to maintain glide.
What does this fourth step mean? Do you apply it?
This problem has never happened to me that the base doesn’t take the wax but on the other hand when I travel, during the trip I can’t use hot wax and that means use liquid wax. With the phantom, would the hot wax last about 3 or 4 days? (so as not to have to use liquid wax, which always seems like a bad option to me)
$150ish is to get it done at a Phantom dealer with curing station. While the instructions say to use base cleaner, and you should, a base grind ensures that there is absolutely no wax on the base and fresh, unoxidized ptex is exposed and the best possible saturation of the Phantom happens.
Phantom lasts forever and really for most purposes there isn’t a need to wax at all any more.
I just wax because I like to, but these days just use a Hertel All-Temp and don’t have to worry about matching wax to conditions.
My resort has two long cat tracks coming out of some of the best runs and just like to make sure I carry my speed as well as possible .
SLC, UT - Cardiff Snowcraft - NOW - Spark R & D - AK457 - DC - Anon - Milosport -
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